0 Magnetizing Bases

While working on my Space hulk Terminators, I'm magnetizing their feet so they can be placed on round bases for use in games of 40K. I touched on this briefly in my post about Brother Noctis, but I figured I'd show the process in more detail.

Since every model's feet are space differently, you'll need to make some adjustments when drilling the holes. Ideally, you want to have the magnets in the base set in two of the existing peg holes. If that's not possible, then use one of the holes and an open area. Check the fit on the bottom of the base to see which holes best match with the model's feet.

 

 

The rare earth magnets are 1/8-inch in diameter, so use a similarly sized drill bit to drill out the holes. Start by putting a hole in the model's foot and one in the base, through the peg hole.

 

To put the magnet into the model's foot, apply a dot of super glue to the top magnet in a stack. Press the magnet into the hole, leaving about 1/16 inch protruding.

 

 

Hold the magnet in place until the glue sets, then pull the rest of the magnet stack away. I find this method easier than trying to use tools or my fingers to hold the magnet; fingers are too fumbly and the magnet sticks to metal tools.

 

Drill out the other hole in the base.

 

To line up the spot to drill in the other foot, place the model on the base with its magnet in the first hole, and position the second foot over the other hole.

 

Then drill up into the foot through the bottom of the base. If it's difficult to hold the model steady, add a tiny dab of super glue to the feet. Use just enough to hold it in place and allow you to pop it apart when you are finished.

 

Now you have two perfectly positioned holes in the base and in the model's feet.

 

Glue the second magnet into the other foot. Then, add your basing material to the base, taking care to keep the holes clear.

 

To attach the magnets in the base, put them on the model's feet.

 

 

Then, stand the model on the base, with the magnets in the holes. Even with the thickness of the sand, the magnets will be at the proper depth to make contact with the model.  This method also ensures you won't accidentally glue them with the magnetic poles the wrong way around.

 

Add some super glue from underneath.

 

Then fill the holes with some ballast (sand) to give the magnets more surface area to adhere to and prevent them from sliding down.

 

Once the glue holds on the sand and magnets, pop the model free.

 

 

And there you have it– perfectly positioned magnets for interchangeable bases.

 

'Til next time!

Detail: Magnetizing Bases

0 Brother Noctis, Space Hulk Terminator

The first of my Space Hulk Terminators is finished. I'm converting and painting one of these per month and for January it's Brother Noctis:

 

I've shown the sculpted details before, but I'm including them here for completeness. All of the Blood Angels iconography was removed and replaced with suitable Black Templar crosses and skulls.

 

The feet were magnetized so I can swap the figure between a round base for use in 40K games, and square bases that fit on the Space Hulk game board (those will come later.) I'd gotten some questions about the magnets– There are two magnets in the feet and they protrude from the bottom of each foot due to the thickness. I marked the spots on the base and drilled holes that the magnets could sink into. The basing ballast was attached around the holes, and then the figure put in place. I pushed the base magnets up through the bottom to they would meet at the appropriate depth.

 

Here's Brother Noctis in all his painted glory!

 

I've put all the marines in a grab bag, and I'll randomly pull one out each month. Next up for February, Brother Claudio! The Black Templars banner will be used to swap the cross icon for the Blood Angels icon on his iron halo.

 

'Til next time!

Detail: Brother Noctis, Space Hulk Terminator

0 Slowly, But Surely

I've been bouncing back and forth between various projects. I've got the Skaven for the campaign (yes it's still alive!), the new Undead Legion models, and various commission work, including some terrain that might get to see the light of day in the coming months.
 

Nagash

Believe it or not, I actually thought that I could have this model finished by the end of October. The basic assembly is finished, but I decided to go all in and turn the spirits into pillars of flame bearing him aloft. It's been a slow process because the putty needs time to cure between applications and I can't cook it under a heat lamp because the plastic will warp. The flames are finished and attached to the base. Next up is adding the basing details (nothing as complicated as the Terrorgheist this time!) and the Nine books of Nagash.

 

 

Space Hulk Terminators: Brother Noctis

I'm still on target for my New Year's resolution of finishing one of these every month. My goal is to replace any removed Blood Angels detail with Black Templars iconography so the models don't lose any of their intricacy. I have finished the sculpting and the model is primed, waiting for paint.

 

 

To be able to use this model in a 40K army, I've magnetized the feet and prepared a base for him. I'll eventually make some square bases so he can be ported back into a Space Hulk game.

 

Plague Claw Catapult

I took an evening to knock out the crew for the warmachine. They are all pinned onto the catapult frame, but not glued, so I can remove them as casualties as the machine takes damage.

 

 

Tomb Prince Selketta and his Necrotic Colossus are still on my painting table as well, along with a ton of Skaven Plague Monks. A box of Skaven Stormfiends are in the mail as well. It never ends...

'Til next time!

Detail: Slowly, But Surely

0 Space Marine Rhino

I'm taking a quick break from the terrain grind to show off some more Black Templars. This is a Rhino that I converted to have working hatches and a fully detailed interior. If you were reading White Dwarf in '03 or '04, you may have seen this along with a brief tutorial. 

The front plate, and hatches are all Forge World parts.

I had to cut away the emblem on the rear hatch and affix it to the plastic door, which had a better fit on the plastic kit.

The inner hatches on the sides were cut away to provide a better view of the interior. Inside, I added a shrine, and some ammo crates.

The door leading up to the cockpit was also removed.

The handles on the top hatch are metal wire, pinned in place, and are there mainly to make it easier to get the top open.

The hinges were created with a "U" shaped piece of brass wire that pins into the side of the vehicle. Some of the frame around the hinge needed to be shaved down to allow the door to swing freely. At the top of each door are two pins that plug into the door and hold it closed.

The 'dozer blade is removable, and I modeled a winch from some metal rod, thread, and a search light for the motor. The hook is from one of the Kroot Warrior accessories.

The front plate opens, and the pilots are modeled from attack bike sidecar gunners.

The cockpit itself is detailed with textured styrene card and parts from Space Marine bikes and land speeders.

I still don't know how they fit 10 Space Marines in there...

'Til next time!

Detail: Space Marine Rhino